Louise

Louise occupies a restored 1930s colonial house inside PMQ, the former police married quarters off Aberdeen Street. André Fu designed the interiors to feel like a private home, with a tropical-toned lounge and bar downstairs and a calmer dining room above, plus a terrace for drinks and casual meals. It is the Hong Kong project of Julien Royer of Odette in Singapore, with Loïc Portalier running the kitchen day to day.

The cooking is French comfort food made with care. The caramelised onion tart with Comté and vin jaune is the dish most regulars order, and the Hong Kong three-yellow chicken comes in two servings for the table: poached breast with Albufera sauce and rice, then grilled legs with roasted-garlic consommé. Confit cod with bone-marrow sabayon and a 'mapo' sweetbread and foie gras dish show a lighter Asian touch, and the Niigata rice pudding with salted caramel is a fine finish.

It suits anniversaries and slow dinners. Tasting menus run from HK$1,488, lunch is served Thursday and Friday, and weekends bring a terrace brunch. Book through SevenRooms; a 10% service charge applies.