Jean-Pierre

Jean-Pierre sits on a quiet slope of Bridges Street and goes all in on the Paris bistro look: Art Nouveau details, scarlet velvet banquettes, candlelight and food served on silver platters and floral china. It opens for dinner only, and the room gets loud and festive as the night goes on.

The house dish is Poulet de Simone, a whole yellow chicken stuffed with mushroom duxelles and tarragon, carved for two. Steak au poivre is flambéed with Cognac, the duck leg confit comes with potatoes Sarladaise and the onion soup arrives under a thick Comté and Gruyère crust. Order the oeuf mimosa to start and the crêpes Suzette, finished at the table, to close.

It works best for birthdays, groups and a lively date. Groups of six to nine can book La Table de Jean-Pierre, and there are set chef's menus for larger parties. Booking through SevenRooms is strongly advised, especially at weekends. The wine list is broad and largely French.