Le Normandie by Anne-Sophie Pic

Le Normandie has been the Mandarin Oriental's grand French restaurant for decades, set high above the Chao Phraya with windows looking straight down the river. It now carries the name of Anne-Sophie Pic, the chef behind Maison Pic in Valence, and the renovated room is lighter and calmer than before. Day-to-day cooking is led by her head chef, Tamaki Kobayashi.

Pic's style rests on precise sauces, infusions and unexpected aromatic pairings. Her berlingots, small pasta parcels with a liquid filling, are on the menu, as is her signature lobster served with a dashi and red fruits. Other courses have included monkfish rolled into a spiral and a strawberry-dusted mille-feuille. Diners choose between the à la carte and the longer Voyage menu, with a business lunch midweek and a four-course lunch at weekends.

This is the place for a landmark celebration or a serious date. Jackets are required for men at dinner and can be lent on request, and sleeveless shirts are not allowed. Book well ahead, flag dietary needs 48 hours in advance and note the cancellation fee.