Bistro Sathorn French Cuisine

Bistro Sathorn is easy to miss: it occupies a standalone house down a narrow lane off South Sathorn Road, with fairy lights in the garden and a dining room lined with wine shelves. The French owner is often on the floor, which gives the place the feel of a neighbourhood bistro in a provincial town.

The cooking is classic and generous. Order the gratinéed onion soup and the Gruyère cheese soufflé, which is rich enough to share between three. Escargots, Hokkaido scallops and a deer tartare are other starters regulars mention. Mains include vol-au-vent filled with chicken or mushroom cream, a pork chop, chicken cordon bleu as a daily special and duck with sautéed potatoes. Finish with tarte Tatin.

Prices are moderate for this part of town, which makes it a good pick for a relaxed dinner for two or a small group of friends. Wines come by the glass or bottle at sensible prices, with the owner happy to suggest one. The room fills up on Friday and Saturday nights, so message the restaurant through Facebook or Instagram to reserve. It is closed on Sundays.