Bisou

Bisou took over the Langsuan townhouse that once held Gaggan's wine bar Wet, and keeps things loud and lively downstairs with a bar and kitchen counter, while the upper floor is calmer and more private. Pop-art kiss prints cover the walls, which fits the name and the house motto of keeping it simple and sexy.

Chef Antoine Darquin cooks French food built for sharing. Start with the truffle French toast or the version topped with uni, then oysters or wagyu tartare. The showpieces are the beef Wellington with foie gras and mushroom, carved at the table, a whole French pigeon, and sea bass baked in a salt crust and flambéed. Dry-aged steaks are sold by weight from the wood fire, and the Valrhona soufflé is the dessert to order.

This is a date-night or celebration spot rather than a quick supper, and plates are priced to share. Sommelier Théo Lavergne runs a deep list with some rare French bottles. It serves dinner only, every night until late, a short walk from BTS Chit Lom. Booking ahead is wise, especially at weekends.